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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.